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Continue to ChatSurfing big waves is not an extreme sport to me. I fall off, tumble down, and come up. My heart's racing because I'm thinking I almost drowned, and I thank God I can breathe again, but I always think, 'What am I hitting?' Water. - Paul Walker from https://whatsmyquote.com/quote/surfing-big-waves-is-not-an-extreme-sport-to-me-i-fall-off-tumble-down-and-come-up-my-heart-s-racing-because-i